van keusen



J. M. VAN HEUSEN.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION FI LED AUG-ll. I917- Patented June 24, 1919.

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. VAN HEUSEN.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED AUGJI. 19H."

Patented June 24, 1919.

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JOHN M. VAN I-IEUSEN, OF JAMAICA IPLAIN, MASSACHUSETTS.

COLLAR.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented June 24, 1919.

Application filed August 11, 1917. Serial No. 185,641.

T 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JOHN M. VAN HEU- snN, a citizen of the United States, residing at 101 Robinwood avenue, Jamaica Plain, in the county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Collars; and I do hereby declare the following to a full, clear, and

exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to soft folding or turn down collars which are adapted to be worn without starching and which Will nevertheless'have a suflicient degree of stiffness to make the collars self-supporting.

The common forms of soft folding collars, made up of individual layers of fabric sewed together, usually present a flimsy appearance, and in order to improve their appearance, it has been common to embody stiffeners of various kinds between the layers of fabric or to apply detachable stiffeners to the collars when worn.

The present invention has for one of its objects the avoidance of the flimsy appearance of the common soft collars, and the production of a collar which will have an acceptable degree of stiffness without undue rigidity, and'which will be self-supporting without additional stiffening means applied thereto, or with a minimum of such added stiffening, so that it will simulate in appear- 'imce the common laundried and starched colars.

In constructing the collars of the present invention, either the neck band'portion of the collar, or the folding or turn down portion of the collar, or, in some cases, both the neck band and folding portion thereof, are made of multi-ply fabric or of heavy single ply,fabric of sufficient body and appropriate weave to impart stiffness to the collar as a whole. It is also characteristic of the invention that the fabric of the neck band portion is thicker than the fabric of the folding portion, or vice versa, and that the fabric of both portions of the collar is integral; and that the edge of the thicker fabric forms a fold line at the top of the collar which determines the line of fold of the collar.

In certain embodiments of the invention,

the entire collar maybe made of a single piece of multi-ply fabric with that part of the fabric which makes up the neck band thicker than that which makes up the folding portion, or vice versa. Thus, the neck band portion may be made of three-ply fabric and the folding portion of two-ply fabric, the line of union of the two-ply and three-ply fabrics being arranged ator near the fold line of the collar, so that the collar folds at the edge of the thicker three-ply fabric. So also, instead of making part of the fabric of a greater number of plies than the other, the weave may be changed so that part of the fabric is thicker than the other.

In other embodiments of the invention, the thick stiff fabric, such as the two-ply or three-ply fabric, may have ext-ending therefrom an integral single plyfabric; and the edge of the mult-i-ply fabric may be arranged at the top of the collar so that the single of the collar and the single fabric the neck band portion. In such a case, the single ply neck band may be reinforced by an added layer or layers of fabric applied thereto.

In still other embodiments of the invention, the heavy fabric, such as the two-ply or three-ply fabric, may have two plies thereof extended as separate layers of fabric. The multi-ply fabric may thus form the outer or folding portion of the collar and the double single ply fabrics the neck band portion, the edge of the multi-ply fabric being arranged at the upper edge of the collar so that it forms a natural fold line for detor-mining the line of fold of the collar. The two single plies of fabric which are woven integral with the multi-ply fabric, may be stitched together at one or more vplaces to give them added stiffness or shape and one or more added layers may be combined therewith, or-inserted therebetween to increase the stiffness or to give added shape.

The heavy fabric and the thinner fabr c or fabrics woven integral therewith may, in some cases, have their line of union in the form of a straight line, but it is more advantageous to weave the fabric with a curvilinear union between the heavy fabric and the thin fabric or fabrics and to so weave bandand folding portion for the free i'fplay this curvilinear union that it will conform to the fold line of the collar and thereby contribute to the shape of the collar and to the permanent curvilinear set of the collar.

The thick and stiffer portion of the fabric may be a single ply fabric, of the nature of canvas, but with an appropriate body and fineness of weave so that it will impart the desired degree of stiffness to the collar. In the preferred embodiment of the invention, however, the thicker and stiffer portion of the fabric is a multi-ply fabric, such as a three-ply interwoven fabric or a two-ply fabric having afilling interwoven .therewith; and the thinner portions of the fabric are made as continuations of one or more plies of the multi-ply fabric, or as modifications of the weave thereof.

It is characteristic of the invention that the collar, when out from the fabric, requires no added stitching to combine the neck band and folding portions thereto together, and requires a minimum of added operations in the completion of the collar by the provision of binding and button holes. If the fabric is woven in strips of appropriate weave and contour, certain of the edges thereof may not require any added binding except at the ends of the collar or the end tabs thereof.

Where the neck band portion of the collar is of'multi-ply fabric of sufficient body and appropriate weave, it will impart a sufficient degree of stiffness to the collar so that the necessity of additional stiffening means will be obviated or minimized, and so that the outer folding portion of the collar will be largely supported thereby and will tend to present a smooth and pleasing appearance; and this appearance will be further improved if the folding portion also is of multi-ply fabric of different thickness from the neck band.

Where the outer folding portion of the collar is of the multi-ply fabric, it will contribute to the stiffness of the collar as awhole and the collar will require a correspondingly less amount of stiffness in the neck band portion thereof. The neck band may thus' require no added stiffening, or it may require a minimum of added stiffening to give the collar the desired degree of stiffness.

When the fabric is of a curvilinear weave, provided with a curvilinear union between the thicker and thinner fabrics, the fabric on the outer side of the curve will be longer than that on ,the inner side. I Not only will the curvilinear union of the fabrics provide a fold line which will conform to the fold line of the collar, but the utilization 'ofthe shorter inner portion of the fabric for the neck band and! of the outer longer portion for the folding portion of the collar will result in leaving a space between the neck of the neck tie, and so that binding 0 the tional view of the collar of Fig. 1; Fig. 3'

shows one of the ends ;of the collar of Fig. 1; Fig. 4 is an enlarged section of the collar of Fig. 1 with the collar unfolded illustrating the fabric construction; Fig. 5 shows a strip of curvilinear fabric adapted for the manufacture of the collar of Figs. 1 to 4; Fig. 6 is a sectional view of a modified form of collar; Fig. 7 is an enlarged sectional view of the edge of the folding portion of the collar of Fig. 6 illustrating the weave; Fig. 8 is a sectional view of a further modified construction; Fig. 9 is a sectional view of another modification; Fig. 10 is' a sectional view of the central portion of a collar similar to that of Fig. 9; Fig. 11 is a sectional view of a still further modification; and Fig. 12 is a sectional view of the fold portion of the collar of Fig. 11. with the collar unfolded.

In certain of the figures of the drawings the parts have been somewhat exaggerated for purposes of illustration. The heavy portion of the fabric has also been illustrated as a multi-ply fabric, which is of particular advantage, but it will be understood that the invention comprehends, in its broader aspects, the utilization of either multi-ply fabrics or appropriate single ply fabrics of appropriate weave and of appropriate thick ness and stiffness, but, as above stated, the multi-ply ,fabrics are tageous and are to be mended for the thicker and stiffer portion.

The collar illustrated in Figs. 1 to 4 is made up of the neck band portion 1 and the outer folding or turn down portion 2. The neck band portion is provided with the particularly recomusual end tabs, one of which is shown at 3 with the usual button hole 4. The neck band portion 1 is of three-ply fabric while the outer folding portion 2 is of two-ply fabric, the third ply 5 of the neck band'portion presenting an edge 6 which is arranged at the fold line of the collar. The arrangement is such that the folding portion tends to fall over the edge 6 of the thicker and heavier three-ply fabric. The edge of the multi-ply fabric may be finished and bound in any suitable manner, for example by turning the edge of the fabric to form a hem and by applying thereto a tape? which is stitched with two rows of stitches 8, one of which passes through the turned edge of the fabric, and the other of which passes through the tape and the multi-ply fabric beyond the turned edge;

particularly advanill) The collar of Figs. 1 to 4 is advantageously cut from a curvilinear fabric which provides a curvilinear union between the thicker three-ply and the thinner two-ply fabric.

A piece of fabric from which the collar may be cut is illustrated in Fig. 5, the twoply fabric being indicated at 9, and the three-ply fabric at 10, the edge of the third ply being indicated at 6. The thinner twoply portion of the fabric will be more flexible than the three-ply portion, so-that the neck band will retain its upright position and so that the outer folding portion will tend to fold along the line 6 which will thus provide a natural line of fold. With curvilinear fabric of appropriate. curvilinear weave, the edge 6 will conform with the upper fold edge of the collar, and will thus contribute to giving the collar the desired shape. The outer thinner portion 9 of the fabric will likewise be woven longer than the three-ply portion 10, so that, when the collaris folded, space will beleft be- Y tween the neck band and folding portions for the free play of the neck tie.

\Vith the construction illustrated in Figs.

1 to 5, both. the neck band and the folding portions will contribute toward imparting to the collar a sufficient degree of stiffness so that the collar will maintain its upright position without wrinkling and without additional stiffening means. Such additional stiffening means may be provided, but where the fabric is of appropriate .weave and stiffness, the necessity for additional stiffening means will be obviated.

In the collar of Fig. 6, the outer folding portion 12 is shown as made of two-ply fabric and the neck band 1 of one-ply fabric; but this construction may be reversed and the one-ply fabric form the outer folding portion of the collar. The edge of the fabric is provided with a binding 7 similar to the binding 7 of Fig. 2. Instead of continuing the two-ply fabric as a single ply, as in Fig. 6, the weave maybe changed to give a thinner portion of the fabric as illustrated in Fig. 7, wherein 13 indicates the two outer plies of a twoply fabric which confine therebetween the filling threads 14. in a manner which will be readily understood, whereas'the thinner portion 15 of the collar is made of a modified weave.

\Vith the construction of Fig. 6, the outer folding portion of the collar may form the thicker and stiffer portion and the upper edge thereof determine the fold line over which the neck band portion, of thinner fabric, will fold. This neck band portion, of single-ply fabric, may have sufficient stiffness so that no added stiffening means therefor is required; but it may have one or more separate layers of single-ply fabric added thereto, for example as in Fig. 8, wherein the outerfolding portion 35 is of two-ply fa bri-c havin the one-ply portion 16 integral therewit and forming the inner part of the neck band. An added layer of fabric 17 is attached to the neck band and stitched thereto by one or more rows of stitching 18 and 19, the upper and lower edges of the added layer being turned in and the lower edge of the single fabric 16 being turned in so that the desired finish'and binding is obtained. The lower edge of the multieply fabric may be provided with a suitable binding 7 similar to that of Fig. 2. With the arrangement of Fig. 8, that portion of-the single-ply fabric 20 which is between the edge of the multi-ply fabric and the edge of the added layer of fabric 17, will form a fold portion which Will be more flexible than the fold portions of the collar, so that the collar will naturally tend to fold along this line.- \Vith appropriate curvilinear fabric having the edge of the multi-ply fabric of appropriate curvilinear contour, this fold line will follow the edge of the multi-ply fabric, and the shape of the collar will be determined thereby.

In the construction of Fig. 9, the outer folding portion 21 is of three-ply fabric having. two plies thereof extended as single fabrics 22, which form the. neck band, although this arrangement may be re-. versed, and the multi-ply fabric form the neck band, and the two single plies the turn-down portion. The .lower edges of these two single fabrics may be turned in and stitched as indicated at 23; and the lower edge of the multi-ply fabric may be provided with a suitable binding such as that indicated at 7 similar to that of Fig. 2.

With the construction of Fig. 9, the outer folding portion when of multi-ply fabric, will contribute to the stiffness of the collar as a whole, so that it will tend to present a smooth and pleasing appearance. The

two single plies Willtend to fold along the will be left therebet-ween an unconnected portion of the single plies to form a natural "fold line, the individual plies folding over the edge of the three-ply fabric.

Where further stiffening is desired in the neck band portion ofthe collar, it may be provided, for e-Xample, as in Figs. 11 and 12, wherein the folding portion 25 of the collar is shown as ofthree-ply fabric having the lower edge thereof bound at 7 as in Fig. 2, and having two plies thereof extended to form the neck band portion of the collar. These two plies 26 have another layer of fabric 27 inserted therebctended to form the single separate plies, as

in Figs. 11 and 12, the added layer vof fabric between the two single plies will be hidden from view,; and both the inside and outside of the collar will present a continuous appearance.

It will be understood that the multi-ply fabric, as well as the thinner fabric or fabrics integral therewith, may be made of different kinds of materiahand that the different layers or plies of the same fabric may be made of different materials. A finer or more expensive .material, such as silk, may form the outer ply of the collar, and a less expensive material the other plies. It will be understood also, that the fabric may be of different colors or designs, and that the collar may, in certain cases, be made reversible so that it will present the same or a different appearanceon the op posite side.

The invention is one of marked simplicitv, inasmuch as it requires a minimum of machine operations for the collar construction. The various types of multi-ply fabrics and the various combinations of multi-ply fabric with one or more thinner fabrics integral therewith may be produced on looms of ap propriate construction and operation, as will be readily understood. The curvilinear weave of the fabric which is of particular advantage in the production of the collar fabrics, may be obtained by feeding the warpthreads on one side of the fabric faster so that one side of the fabric is actually woven longer than the other, and so that the fabric as a whole will have a curvilinear set and the union of thefabric with thethinner fabric will have a corresponding curvilinear contour. Thus in the construction of Fig. 5, the longitudinal or warp threads at the outer edge of the thinner portion may be fed faster than the corresponding threads at the outer edge of the portion 10, so that than on the other,

edge of the portion 10, and so that there the outer edge of the portion 9 will be longer than the outer may be a progressive change in the length collar, where .such a collar is desired; and,

when so used, the inherent stiffness of the collar itself will supplement the stiffening effect of the starch. Less starch will thus be requiredto give to the collar a certain stiffness, while a thinner and less stiif fabric may be used, when the collar is to be starched, than when the collar is to be worn without starching.

What I claim is 1. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion woven integral therewith, one

of said ortions'being of appropriate thick ness and weave to give stiffness to the collar and being woven thicker than the other portion, andhaving a line of union therewith of curvilinear contour corresponding to the fold line of the collar;

' as described.

2. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band ,portion and a folding or turn down portion woven integral therewith, one of said portions being of multi-ply fabric and woven thicker than the other, and having a line of union therewith of curvilinear contour corresponding to the fold line of the collar; substantially as described.

3. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion woven'integral therewith, the neck band portion being of appropriate thickness and weave to impart stiffness to the collar and having a line of union with the folding portion which is of curvilinear contour conformingto the fold line of the collar, and one of said portions being woven thicker than the other; substantially as described.

4. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and afolding or turn down portion woven integral therewith, the outer folding portion of the collar being a multi-ply fabric of appropriate thickness and weave to impart stiffness to the collar and having a line of union with the neck band portion of curvilinear contour conforming to the fold line of the collar, said folding portion being thicker than the neck band portion, and said neck band portion having additional fabric secured thereto; substantially as described.

5. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn substantially extension or extensions thereof being of curvilinear contour conforming to the fold line of the collar; substantially as described.

6. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion woven integral therewith, the outer folding portion of the collar being of multi-ply fabric and having a single-ply extension forming the neck band of the collar, and additional fabric combined therewith to form. the neck band, the union of such multi-ply and single-ply fabrics being of curvilinear contourconforming to the fold line of the collar; substantially as described.

7. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion woven integral therewith, the outer folding portion of the collar being of multi-ply fabric and having two of the plies thereof extended to form the neck band, and additional fabric combined therewith in the neck band portion of the collar, the union of the multi-ply and singleply fabrics being of curvilinear contour conforming to the fold line o-fthe collar; substantially as described.

8. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion woven integral therewith, one of said portions being of multi-ply fabric having one or more plies thereof extended to form the other portion; substantially as described.

9. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion woven integral therewith, the outer folding portion of the collar being of multi-ply fabric and having two of the plies thereof extended to-form the neck band, and additional fabric combined therewith in the neck band portion of the collar; substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

JOHN M. VAN HEUSEN. 

